Insights on Dark Tourism in Metro Manila and South Luzon

Have you experience to visit cemeteries as an itinerary in a tour? Can you imagine that cemeteries will be considered as tourist spots? Can you find some pitch for travel writing in graveyards and burial sites?

A classic photo of my 2012-2013 tour in Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery
which captivates interesting ideas on dark tourism.

A portion of Paco Park, also known as Paco Cemetery. 

Nowadays, one interesting trend about travel writing is the "dark tourism." First, when you are typing the Google search engine on meaning of dark tourism, it refers to "tourism directed to places that are identified with death and suffering." When I read the post in the travel blog of the Pinay Solo Backpacker, Dr. Philip Stone of  the University of  Lancaster in 2005 defined dark tourism is the act of travel and visitation to sites, attractions and exhibitions which have real or recreated death, suffering or the seemingly macabre as a main theme.

At first, it sounds unusual or creepy to try the concept of "dark tourism." However, if you are thinking of some places such as the Sunken Cemetery in Camiguin, Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery in Laguna or the Hanging Coffins in Sagada, they are burial sites which are tourist attractions in their respective towns. In this post, we will be featuring sites previously featured in this blog where these places are interesting to travel within and near Metro Manila.

The facade of Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery with its bricked pavements.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery
Nagcarlan, Laguna

Nestled in the foothills of Mount Banahaw, Nagcarlan is a rustic town located in the heart of the province of Laguna. The town is noted for its sweet delicacies, an old Spanish Baroque church and an underground cemetery.

The bricked arch of Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery

It was built in 1851 and became a secret headquarters of the Katipuneros during the Revolution in 1896. The site is noted for its bricked arch and facade of the chapel will captivate your attention. There are almost one hundred forty niches in the octagonal grounds and thirty-six niches in the underground crypt. The cemetery was a burial place of Franciscan friars, former barangay leaders during the Spanish era and prominent Catholic families in Nagcarlan. When you enter the Underground Crypt, avoid taking photos with flash in your camera.

The ruined barracks in the Corregidor Island. 

Corregidor Island
Cavite City

A small island in the entrance of Manila Bay, Corregidor Island is just three miles away from the peninsular province of Bataan, but the tadpole-shaped island is part of Cavite City which is located ten miles away. The island is noted for its ruined barracks and old cannons and mortars used during the World War II, Corregidor is also a place where you need to remember the valor of Filipino and American soldiers during the Pacific War and to recall the history of our country during that period where the Filipinos defended our country against the Japanese invaders.

The Pacific War Memorial 

A marker in the Japanese Garden of Peace.

There are memorial sites in the island such as the Pacific War Memorial which featured a rotunda with a circular altar dedicated to the heroes who sacrificed their lives for their country, the Filipino Heroes Memorial which featured tableaux of different heroes and historical events in the country and the Japanese Garden of Peace for the heroic act showed by the Japanese soldiers for showing patriotism. Therefore, the island is a place where you need to commemorate the colorful history of our country as a fortress of heroic acts and patriotism.

The Saint Pancratius Chapel in Paco Park, Manila.

Paco Park and Cemetery
Paco, Manila

It was once Manila's municipal cemetery built by the Dominicans during the Spanish colonial period. It is located in General Luna Street at the end of Padre Faura Street in Paco, Manila. The construction of cemetery was issued in 1807 and it was inaugurated on 1822. The cemetery was also the place of interment of Dr. Jose Rizal after his execution in Bagumbayan in 1896. Interment at the park was ceased in 1912 and those who buried in the park were exhumed and transferred to other cemeteries in Manila. Today, it is a park which is a venue for weddings and events.

The historical marker for the the three friars, GOMBURZA, as their burial site.

Inside the Paco Cemetery is a chapel dedicated to St. Pancratius, a Roman citizen who converted to Christianity. Some of the notable interments in this former cemetery are Dr. Jose Rizal and the GOMBURZA (Father Mariano Gomez, Father Jose Burgos and Father Jacinto Zamora), the three friars who were executed because they were linked in the Cavite Mutiny.

The Chapel of Saint Pancratius in Campo Santo de La Loma.

La Loma Cemetery (Campo Santo de La Loma)
Caloocan City

Located in the southern part of Caloocan City which is adjacent to the borders of Manila, La Loma Cemetery is the oldest cemetery in Manila. It was opened in 1884 and was originally known as Cementerio de Binondo (Binondo Cemetery). Campo Santo de La Loma is one of the few sites that escaped ruin during the Battle of Manila in 1945 where most of the city’s collection of architecture was destroyed.

The facade of Saint Pancratius Chapel.

Some of the notable burials in this cemetery are Filipino historical figures such as Pablo Ocampo, Cayetano Arellano, Josefa Llanes Escoda, and Tomas Mapua, to name a few. The cemetery is noted for the Chapel of Saint Pancratius which was also built in 1884 and there is a mass during All Saints Day in this church.

To end up this post, I would like to emphasize that I want to diverge from exploitation of dark tourism and promote responsibility in visiting those places in order to explore the history and culture of a town or city. There are ethical issues concerning this aspect of tourism, but if the purpose is to educate the readers and share the better understanding of our history and culture, you are on a good track. These reasons draw me to visit such morbid places. Just keep exploring on the bright side of dark tourism. 

Bounties of Nature and History in the Laguna Loop: Discovering Nagcarlan

In the foothills of the mystic Mount Banahaw, there is a town strengthened by history and heritage by its bricked structures preserved until the modern days. In addition, you can enjoy the bounties of nature through its lush vegetation, clear waters teemed up with cascading waterfalls flowing from the rivers of Banahaw, and stunning and verdant mountains bordered the historical town.

As you drive in the Laguna Loop, you should visit the town of  Nagcarlan. Located in southern part of Laguna, this town is surrounded by the towns of Pila in the north, Victoria in the northwest, Calauan on the west,  Magdalena on the east, Rizal in the southwest, Liliw on the southeast and Dolores, Quezon in the south.

The statue of Ana Kalang, as you enter the poblacion of Nagcarlan.

Nagcarlan was named after the rich and generous woman named Ana Kalang, who helped the people of the town. It become a town in 1583 under Fr. Tomas de Miranda, the priest who brought wheat seeds in our country.

The thick vegetation apparent from the wide plains to the stunning mountain.

Bunga Falls

The pure and clear waters in the town of Nagcarlan which is also connected to the neighboring towns.

The stunning Mt. San Cristobal from the highway of Nagcarlan.

In Nagcarlan, you can take your nature escapade here as well with outings in some various resorts in the town. In addition, you can enjoy the beautiful spots in this small town because it is bordered by stunning, green mountains of Banahaw and San Cristobal, the thick and verdant vegetation, and the gushing waterfalls flowing with the clear rivers and cool water from the mountains. Besides, you can experience an ultimate roadtrip through zigzag roads and slopes.

The way to Saint Bartholomeu Church which is bordered with palm.

The old bricks used as materials in the construction of the church.

Saint Bartholomew Church

You can also take a walk in the town proper especially if you want to take a historical tour. The first landmark is the Saint Bartholomew Church located in the poblacion. It was built in 1752 and it is one of the Baroque churches in the Laguna Loop. The bricked facade of the church as well with the solemn interior and the Baroque architecture proved that the church was strengthened by centuries.

A huge bell strengthened by years.

A small window from the belfry.

The bird's eye view of Nagcarlan from the belfry.

The church was also the location of the classic fantasy series "Kampanerang Kuba" starrring Anne Curtis. In addition, I had a chance to climb at the belfry. While climbing to the belfry, I noticed that wooden ladders are sturdy for many years but I feel afraid while going upstairs. When I made it to the top, I noticed the huge bell surrounded by the smaller ones and it is also rewarding that I saw the bird's eye view of the town from the top.

The bricked arch of Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery.

The chapel of the Underground Cemetery.

The octagonal grounds teemed up with green grass and shrubs and bricked road.

The niches located in the octagonal grounds of the cemetery.

The Underground Crypt.

A few walks away from the church, you can visit the Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery. It is one of the unique tourist attractions and historical sites in Laguna. It was built in 1851 by a Franciscan priest named Vicente Velloc. It became a secret headquarters of the Katipuneros during the Revolution in 1896. In 1981, it declared as one of the historical sites in the Philippines. As you enter the place, you will notice the bricked facade of the arch as well with the brick road going to the chapel and you can found the cemetery under the chapel. There are almost one hundred forty niches in the octagonal grounds and thirty-six niches in the underground crypt. The cemetery was a burial place of Franciscan friars, and former barangay leaders or cabeza de barangay during the Spanish era and prominent Catholic families in Nagcarlan.

My travel in Nagcarlan reminds me of the rich history during the Spanish era and the abundance of natural resources and hidden natural spots in our country. It is such a place to visit during our vacation as well with the fact that schools can use this as an itinerary for their educational field trip.

Tips and Reminders: According to National Historical Institute, the tourists are allowed to take pictures unless that they are not using the flash in your camera and they are permitted to publish pictures for public use. (Thanks to the tour guide who is knowledgeable and accommodating during my visit in Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery)

Hours of Operation: The schedule of visit in Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery is from Tuesday to Sunday, starting from 8:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.

How to Get There: You can ride a jeepney from Santa Cruz passing the towns of Pagsanjan, Magdalena and Liliw and they will get you to the town proper of Nagcarlan. In addition, you can take a jeepney from San Pablo passing the town of Rizal.

You can also read December 2011 post from my blog Perspectives in White Scratch Papers entitled Navigating Laguna Loop: Nagcarlan

Date of Travel: October 29, 2011